Tuesday, July 1, 2008

Arlington National Cemetery


At Arlington Cemetery, just over the Potomac river from Washington DC, you can either tour the cemetery on foot or you can ride the tram for $7.50 per person. We rode the tram and it proved to be the best choice for us. Because it was the last sight for us after a long day of sightseeing, we had only about a hour to see the cemetery, so the tram enabled us to see more. But the tram also comes with commentary so we learned a few facts too.

There are three stops where you can get off the tram and catch the next one to continue. These stops are the Kennedy Graves, The Tomb of the the Unknown Soldier, and the Custis House. At the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier there is a changing of the guard ceremony every half hour that is very solemn and moving.
Even though these photos make it hard to believe, just minutes later the skies opened up and it rained. We were even happier we had chosen to take the tram as it kept us dry. The tram drivers were very informative and had great personalities. One of our drivers entertained us while we waited with a history quiz. Here is a sample question: Only 4 American presidents are NOT buried on American soil. Can you name them? The answer is below the photo of John F. Kennedy's grave and the Eternal Flame.
The 4 presidents not buried on American soil are the 4 who are still alive! Jimmy Carter, George H. Bush, Bill Clinton and George W. Bush.

Thursday, June 26, 2008

Drive to the Past in Waterford

Just a few miles from Leesburg, Va is small but historic village called Waterford. There are no fancy restaurants, movie theaters, supermarkets or electronics stores found here. Instead this sleepy, village looks almost exactly as it did a hundred years ago. The only updates visible are in the modern cars parked along the streets.

Founded by the Janney family in 1733, it started as a quaker village. The Janney family's first project after building a grist mill to make their living was to build a Quaker Meetinghouse for their services. Over the years the town grew as more and more Quakers moved in and eventually non-Quakers also began settling there.

The majority of the buildings in the town were built in the years between 1800 and 1825. Today most of those buildings that were originally shops or businesses have been converted to dwellings. These early houses are build mostly of stone with later buildings made of wood.

The town is very small, just a few streets clustered near a stream, but it is also very steep with a series of very steep hills.

The town thrived for many years, but the civil war and later the railroad which by-passed Waterford slowly eroded it. This chain of events meant that the town was also virtually untouched by progress. Old buildings were not torn down to make room for new ones and as a result today the town is a perfect nugget of history in the middle of a county known for its rapid growth.

To see photos of some of the buildings of Waterford, click here.

Waterford is just a few miles outside of Leesburg Va.

Monday, June 16, 2008

Salem is for more than witches

(Reenactment of a witch trial)
A good day trip from Boston is Salem, Massachusets. Located just 16 miles north of Boston, you can get there by car, train or even boat. The train takes about 30 minutes, but if the weather is nice, the Salem Ferry offers a 50 minute ride along the scenic coast which will add to the atmosphere.

There is more to see than just the Salem Witch Trial history, although these sights can be fun and interesting if a bit touristy. Some of the highlights including some witch related ones:
New England Pirate Museum
Discover the rich pirate history of the area including the lives of Blackbeard and Captain Kidd

House of the Seven Gables
Take a guided tour of the Turner-Ingersoll Mansion (The House of the Seven Gables) and see the Nathaniel Hawthorne House, the Counting House, and the Colonial Revival Gardens.
Burying Point (1637)
This is the oldest cemetery in Salem. You can see the graves of a Mayflower pilgrim and witchcraft trial judge John Hathorne. Open dawn to dusk and there is no cost.
Chestnut Street
This historic landmark on one of the most architecturally great streets in America. Strolling down this street you will see a host of enormous historic houses. This is part of Salem's McIntire Historic District.
Peabody Essex Museum
200 Years of New England architecture and culture in one fascinating museum.
Custom House
The home of America's first millionaire and part of the Salem Maritime National Historic site.
Derby House
It is the oldest brick house in Salem and part of the Salem Maritime National Historic site.
Salem Strolls
Guided walking tours of Salem.
Salem Wax Museum
Touristy, but very compelling visual displays of history from 1626 through the terrifying Hysteria of 1692.
Salem Witch Museum
Learn the history behind the Salem Witch trials with multi-dimensional displays and narrations.
Lobstering & Lighthouse Cruise
Enjoy a narrated, 1 1/2 hour, harbor tour that visits Salem's historic lighthouses and islands.
Pickering Wharf
A quaint market from olden days that includes a harborside village of shops with 3 restaurants.

Saturday, June 14, 2008

Boston on a budget is a blast

(Our street - I think it is Cedar Lane Way)
In the summer of 2004 we spent days in Boston. Because we were in the process of buying a new house, we had a very tight travel budget, but we had one of the best trips despite this.

We wanted to stay somewhere with charm and history, but couldn't afford hotels in the historic section. Somehow we managed to find a studio apartment to rent right on the historic Beacon Hill. I think it was located on Cedar Lane Way which is really an alley just barely wide enough for a small car. Our "flat" was one floor up and had no external views, but was deliciously cozy inside with a full kitchen, hardwood floors, a fireplace, a sofa, TV and a queen sized bed. It was also air conditioned. I think it was student accommodation the rest of the year and it was sublet for summer visitors. We loved this place and every night we strolled around Beacon hill taking in the atmosphere. Plus we were able to save money on food because we had breakfast in our flat each day.
Boston is a great city for walking and we took advantage of this. You can follow the Freedom Trail around the city and see all the historical sights and there are plenty of green spaces too. We started with a double-decker bus tour around the city to get oriented and after that we walked everywhere which of course is free. And for the two day trips that we took to Plymouth and Salem, it was just under a mile to walk to South Station to catch the train.
Boston is a wonderful city to visit if you like history, charm but also want lots to see and do. You can try some of the local cuisine such as lobster, oysters, Boston Baked Beans, a clam bake or Samuel Adams beer or you skip tradition and have any cuisine from around the world. Boston has it all.
As a final treat, when you are on your way back to the airport to fly home, why not take the water taxi across Boston harbor instead of a regular taxi. Not only will you avoid the congestion and traffic, but you will be rewarded with a harbor view of the beautiful city sparkling in the sunlight disappearing in the distance. It was one of the highlights of our trip and cheaper than a taxi too.

Thursday, June 12, 2008

Can you travel with no clothes?

We knew it wouldn't be long. United has followed American's example and has now imposed fees for luggage on domestic flights in the USA. They have a phased in implementation that means that if you bought your ticket early enough, you might avoid the fees.

In a nutshell:

  • If you are flying outside of the US, Canada, Mexico and the Virgin Islands, you will have no fees for your first or second bag.
  • If you are flying to one of these places and you bought your ticket before February 4, 2008, you will also have no fees for your first or second bag.
  • For those who bought their ticket in window period from Feb 4 to June 12, 2008, your first bag is fee-free, but you have to pay the $25 for the second as previously announced as long as you travel before August 18th. After August 18th, the first bag will cost you $15.
  • For anyone who buys their ticket from tomorrow onward, it will be $15 for the first bag and $25 for the second.

I think I see a business opportunity: A shipping service for people to cheaply send their belongings to their destination so they can fly bagless. Or perhaps "rent-a-wardrobe" so you can just rent the clothes you need at your destination!

Tuesday, June 10, 2008

Paris for walkers

(Parc des Buttes Chaumont, Paris, France)
In 2001 I wanted to visit Paris with my husband. He is not a city person however. His idea of a great vacation involves hiking in the mountains or biking through the countryside. When I mentioned Paris, he immediately envisioned honking horns, crowds, exhaust fumes, concrete everywhere and huge, expensive hotels and food.

I managed to convince him to go by promising that I would ensure we walked for miles every day, saw lots of green spaces, and minimized crowds. So what did he think after the trip was over? He loved Paris and claimed it was his favorite city we had visited. High praise from him. So how did I do it?

We stayed at The Hotel Mondia. Located on a very quiet side street, it was just one block from the Place de la Republique, a Metro hub station giving us access to every corner of Paris. Our room had a small wrought-iron balcony, floor to ceiling windows, a quaint, ornamental fireplace, and breakfast was included. I just checked their website and they now charge extra for breakfast, but it is only 6 Euros. We had room 504 and enjoyed it.

Next, I studied a book on Paris walks for weeks selecting walks that were interesting, unusual and included green spaces.

Our first walk was a 4.5 mile walk on Montmartre, a hilltop village with cobbled streets, caberets, the last remaining vineyard in Paris and artists. We started at the bottom and wound our way up to the top on stepped streets and hidden alleys. At the bottom we had the place to ourselves and were able to stop and admire what we were seeing. At the top it became more crowded, but the views of Paris were amazing.

Our second walk took us through Pere Lachaise cemetery, a village called Belleville, and on to the Parc des Buttes Chaumont. This amazing parc within the city limits is an outdoor paradise. It has mountains, a lake, caves, grottos, walking paths and playgrounds.

Another favorite 3-mile walk took us through Le Marais, the old Jewish quarter. There were so many good places to stop to eat along this walk that we made sure we did this one at lunch time.

Another day we did the typical tourist scene including Place de la Concorde, the Champs Elysees and Arc de Triomphe. However, we ended the walk by avoiding the crowded Champs Elysees and wandered through neighboring streets which was very relaxing and interesting.

Thursday, June 5, 2008

Step back in time by visiting Williamsburg, Virginia


Williamsburg, Virginia is a must-see stop for anyone visiting Virginia. It is about 4 hours by car from my home in Leesburg, Virginia but it is well worth the drive.

Williamsburg was one of the earliest towns in Virginia. The first English settlers came in 1607, but obviously the native Americans were already here. In the 20th century the town was converted to a "living" museum. The historic section was restored to how it was in colonial times (17oo's).

The shops and buildings are staffed with costumed characters from the colonial era who will speak to you as if you are living in the 1700's. They will be cooking, working and acting exactly the way the colonials themselves would have. In the bakeshop you can buy a yummy slice of authentic gingerbread or on the courthouse steps you can witness a public speech or a open air trial. Walk into the home of a freed slave and ask her about her habits and cooking methods. She will be happy to show you around.

If you plan to be in town at dinner time, make advance reservations at one of the authentic colonial taverns and you will enjoy a colonial meal on pewter plates and perhaps you might be tempted to some ale in a pewter tankard.

After dinner, you can walk off your filling meal with a ghost tour or a candlelight evening tour to soak up a bit more history before you leave.

The next day, if you have had your fill of history, travel a few miles outside of town and visit Busch Gardens "The Old County" This amusement park is divided into regions designed to look and feel like you are visiting Germany, England, France, Canada and Italy. Between log flumes and roller coasters you can taste German bratwursts, French crepes and English fish and chips.

If amusement parks aren't your thing, or if they are but you have a 3rd day, Jamestown Settlement is right next door to Williamsburg. Here you can visit replicas of the three boats that Columbus sailed to America, visit an Native American teepee, and tour a replica of the first settlement compound at Jamestown.

These are just the highlights of the area. There is so much more to experience and Virginia Beach is not far away either. You could easily fill an entire week in this compact but rich part of the state.